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Short about the various styles of bicycles:
Racing Bikes
In the racing bike you have a position where your arms, shoulders and head are very low, that is, a horizontal position of your back to minimize wind resistance. This is not comfortable when you bike in the city as you either can’t see far ahead what is coming, or you get at pain in your neck trying to look forward.
The tires are very thin and hard which is uncomfortable on cobbles and rough surfaces as they don't absorb much of the vibration. There are usually 12 to 16 speed gears and good handbrakes, both need some maintenance to work properly. The racing bike is made for fast riding, and it is very light. Because of the angels of the frame it turns so easily that it can be a bit unstable if you drive slowly. For road riding it is very nice, but this style is not the best for biking in the city.
Special racing bikes
Track bikes are made for racing indoors on a circuit. They have just one fixed gear (you can't stop pedaling) and no brakes - though you can slow down by slowing your pedaling. They have become popular for use in the city, but don’t - they are not allowed for outdoor biking and they are much too dangerous.
The tree classical positions of bike riding, from left racing, sport-position and upright.
Mountain bikes
Mountain bikes have good brakes, lots of gears and knobby tires - perfect for riding off the beaten track. The riding position is quite upright so you can see what tree you're about to crash into! Mountain Bikes sometimes have suspensions, either in the forks and frames or only in forks. This is for true off-road riding. A related breed of bike is the ATB or All Terrain Bike. ATBs are more for riding on rough surfaces and paths in the wood. ATB is usable in the city but you won’t normally need all the gearing, and the frame is tough which makes the bicycle very heavy. Be aware of cheap mountain bikes; because the MTB has been the latest fashion for some time, less serious manufactures have sold very cheap bikes with low quality components that often fail and make the bicycle dangerous.
Modified mountain bikes (For city biking)
Many people like the look and the frame of the MTB, but as a huge amount of gears and knobby tires are not of any use in the city, some manufactories now equip the frames with lighter tires and fewer gears. Sometimes you can have internal hub gears but that depends of the frame, you can not just shift from external derailleur gearing to internal hub gearing on the same frame. Together with fames and racks you will have a solid city bike which turn easily around corners.
If you only take short rides in the city where head wind is ignorable, and you don’t have to lift the bike up or down stairs, this could be a choice for you. The position is upright so your view is good. Because of the angles of the bike it is much under-steered so you can drive slowly and still keep your direction. However, even a mild headwind is very frustrating, and the riding position is inefficient, so fast driving is not an option. This type of bike often has a footbrake. Bikes with footbrakes must always have an additional handbrake for the front wheel, as the footbrake is insufficient if you have to stop in a hurry.
Here you see the diffence in the angles of a racing bike and a touring bike. The racing bike is the uppermost.
What style of bicycle is best for your commuting
Well, that depends…..
But here are some advises:
1. Don’t buy a racing bike or a mounting bike, they are for special use and not comfortable in the city.
2. Avoid seamed tubes for the frame though they are cheaper than the seamless tubes - they are heavy and less strong. The heaviest bike is not necessarily the best for heavy load. If you have to ride with heavy loads, go for a frame that is designed for touring or maybe a modified mounting bike.
3. Decide how many gears you want. If you don’t need several gears, don’t buy them, they all need some maintenance. When you think you need different gearing take at least 5 speeds.
4. Decide which type of gearing you want. Internal gearing is not as sensitive as the external derailleur gearing, but when (not if) it breakes down, you will need a bicycle repair shop to fix it. The derailleur gear you can probably maintain yourself. Internal gearing take some (around 15%) of your efficiency of your pedaling.
5. Avoid foot brakes, they are not efficient.
6. Never buy a bike that you have never tried to ride.
7. The angles of the frame are essential for your comfort. The closer the fork is to vertical the easier it is to turn around corners, but is can be too “lively” when you ride slowly in the city. If the fork has a deep bow where it meets the front wheel and the wheels are far apart you will have an under-steered bike which is stable in slow riding but you need a lot of space to turn.
8. Use your money on the important part. The frame is the most important part of your bike, you are absolutely better off with a good frame with angles that suit you and which is light and strong than a cheap frame with a lot of gears.
Mountain bikes have good brakes, lots of gears and knobby tires - perfect for riding off the beaten track. The riding position is quite upright so you can see what tree you're about to crash into! Mountain Bikes sometimes have suspensions, either in the forks and frames or only in forks. This is for true off-road riding. A related breed of bike is the ATB or All Terrain Bike. ATBs are more for riding on rough surfaces and paths in the wood. ATB is usable in the city but you won’t normally need all the gearing, and the frame is tough which makes the bicycle very heavy. Be aware of cheap mountain bikes; because the MTB has been the latest fashion for some time, less serious manufactures have sold very cheap bikes with low quality components that often fail and make the bicycle dangerous.Modified mountain bikes (For city biking)
Many people like the look and the frame of the MTB, but as a huge amount of gears and knobby tires are not of any use in the city, some manufactories now equip the frames with lighter tires and fewer gears. Sometimes you can have internal hub gears but that depends of the frame, you can not just shift from external derailleur gearing to internal hub gearing on the same frame. Together with fames and racks you will have a solid city bike which turn easily around corners.
Commuting bikes/Touring bikes (For city biking)
Another way to use the good stuff from special bikes is the commuting type of bike, where the light frame from a racing bike is equipped with a flat handlebar and fewer gears. The thin tires can usually be shifted to wider tires. Depending of the angels of the frame fenders can be mounted.
Hybrid bikes/trekking bikes (For city biking)
The position is sport-position or upright, there are a lot of gears like the MTB and they are usually made of aluminum so they are light.
City bikes (Modern fashion)
The position is usually sport-position (sometimes upright) and the frame is light, usually aluminum. Gearing can be the external derailleur gearing or internal hub gearing or with only one gear. They will have fenders and a rack. The tires are wider than in the racing bike but thinner than the mountain bike.
City bikes (Old fashion)
If you only take short rides in the city where head wind is ignorable, and you don’t have to lift the bike up or down stairs, this could be a choice for you. The position is upright so your view is good. Because of the angles of the bike it is much under-steered so you can drive slowly and still keep your direction. However, even a mild headwind is very frustrating, and the riding position is inefficient, so fast driving is not an option. This type of bike often has a footbrake. Bikes with footbrakes must always have an additional handbrake for the front wheel, as the footbrake is insufficient if you have to stop in a hurry.
What style of bicycle is best for your commuting
Well, that depends…..
But here are some advises:
1. Don’t buy a racing bike or a mounting bike, they are for special use and not comfortable in the city.
2. Avoid seamed tubes for the frame though they are cheaper than the seamless tubes - they are heavy and less strong. The heaviest bike is not necessarily the best for heavy load. If you have to ride with heavy loads, go for a frame that is designed for touring or maybe a modified mounting bike.
3. Decide how many gears you want. If you don’t need several gears, don’t buy them, they all need some maintenance. When you think you need different gearing take at least 5 speeds.
4. Decide which type of gearing you want. Internal gearing is not as sensitive as the external derailleur gearing, but when (not if) it breakes down, you will need a bicycle repair shop to fix it. The derailleur gear you can probably maintain yourself. Internal gearing take some (around 15%) of your efficiency of your pedaling.
5. Avoid foot brakes, they are not efficient.
6. Never buy a bike that you have never tried to ride.
7. The angles of the frame are essential for your comfort. The closer the fork is to vertical the easier it is to turn around corners, but is can be too “lively” when you ride slowly in the city. If the fork has a deep bow where it meets the front wheel and the wheels are far apart you will have an under-steered bike which is stable in slow riding but you need a lot of space to turn.
8. Use your money on the important part. The frame is the most important part of your bike, you are absolutely better off with a good frame with angles that suit you and which is light and strong than a cheap frame with a lot of gears.
